Saturday 26 August 2017

The Giant's Headstone near Clonmel


Its funny how a random news report can get you thinking of monuments you visited many moons ago. I happened upon this report in "The Nationalist" newspaper primarily based in Clonmel about a reservoir to be constructed in the townland of Giantsgrave. Obviously with a name like that there must have been a monument here once. Hopefully the stone will not be affected by the works and has been noted.

I last visited approximately 11 years ago and I understand that these days this block enclosure with the pillar stone is lost behind a pine plantation.
When I last visited there was no entry on archaeology.ie for the site. So when I thought of it after reading the article I found the SMR has a lot to say about the monument.



It is likely that this stone was recorded on the Civil Survey of (1654-6) and this shows its importance as a landscape feature.
As mentioned below one of the crosses is in raised relief and the other in base relief and you can see that in the photos. The OS letters mention that the hill was called "An Cnoc Air a bhFuair Fionn Fios" or "The Hill on which Finn received his knowledge". So perhaps it wasn't the Salmon of Knowledge from which he got it from after all.
Other folklore suggests that it was thrown from the top of Slievenamon (again linked with Fionn MacCoill) and that it marks the grave of some Ulstermen who died during the siege of Clonmel by Cromwell (I assume).

On the old OS maps it is referred to as The Giant's Headstone.

Copyright NMS
The Irish Schools Manuscripts have this to say about the hill

"The people of Ireland tell a lot of stories about Giants. About two miles from Clonmel is a big hill with a lot of bushes on it. It is a grave of a giant, he is supposed to have been buried there. It is called Giants Grave."

https://www.duchas.ie/en/cbes/4922257/4864829/5021467

From archaeology.ie

"On the summit of a hill, at the highest point in the vicinity. S of cross-pillar is under pasture, area N of stone is planted with young conifers. In the Civil Survey (1654-6) there is a reference to 'the stones standing, upon the sd hill to the lands of Rathduffe' (Simington 1931, vol. 1, 297). This refers to at least one standing stone in Rathduff townland, part of which appears to have become Giantsgrave townland. In Lewis' topographical dictionary (1837, 508) he refers to an upright stone at Giant's Grave which is 'about eight feet [2.4m] high above the ground, on which two crosses are sculptured; that on one side of the stone is in raised relief, that on the other in bas relief'. Again the stone and two crosses are described in the OS Letters (O'Flanagan 1930, vol. 1, 51-2) at which time there was 'a small piece of land left untilled about this stone measuring eighteen feet [5.5m] from east to west and seven feet [2m] from north to south'. According to the OS Letters the hill was called 'An Cnoc Air a bhFuair Fionn Fios i.e., the hill on which Finn (Mac Cumhaill) received his (prophetic) knowledge, and the Townland is called An Chloch Fhada i.e., the Long Stone, in Irish, and Giant's Grave in English' (ibid.). Another local legend claimed that the stone was cast from the top of Slievenamon by a giant to its present position (White 1892, 28), while another tradition asserted that the stone was erected to mark the grave of some Ulstermen who fell in a sortie during the siege of Clonmel (Power 1908, 5). Cross-inscribed pillar stone (H 2.74m), aligned NW-SE, composed of sandstone and inscribed with a cross on both broad faces. That on the SW face is in relief, with circles hollowed out in the angles and a circular knob surmounting the triangular apex of the head. There is a blank panel above this. The other cross, on the NE face, approximately half way up the stone, is sunken with a central bosse. This face has split on the W side. A concrete wall (H 1.04m) now encloses the pillar stone, and is a maximum distance of 1.05m from the stone."

Ive included the references that Jean Farrelly uses for the above.

References:
  • 1. O'Flanagan, Rev. M. (Compiler) 1930 Letters containing information relative to the antiquities of the county of Tipperary collected during the progress of the Ordnance Survey in 1840. Bray.
  • 2. Power, P. 1908 Placenames of the Decies. Journal of the Waterford and Southeast of Ireland Archaeological Society 11, 1-34, 45-78, 135-43 and 179-210.
  • 3. Simington, R.C. (ed.) 1931 The Civil survey, AD 1654-1656. Vol I: county of Tipperary: eastern and southern baronies. Dublin. Irish Manuscripts Commission.

Friday 11 August 2017

Síd Cullain or the Castle of Cullahill


This is one of the Síds of Tipperary that I had forgotten to write up into blog format.

People will know it as the dramatic ruin looking down into the valley were Kelly's of Fantane are based. Prof Ronald Hicks who is an expert on the subject says this "Síd (Cullain) – in or near Glenkeen, a valley and parish in County Tipperary with an early monastic site. There are several likely hills nearby, including one in the townland. Perhaps more likely is Cullahill, to the west of the mona...stic site. Today there is the ruin of a large house of indeterminate age on Cullahill."
What is interesting is just how much archaeology and folklore you can see from up here. Looking to the east you can see Knockanora with a cairn on top, next is the hillfort of Garrangrena Lower and then the Devils Bit forms an interesting silhouette. I was really impressed with the views and the remains up here.

Archaeology.ie describes the castle as "Situated on natural rock outcrop in an upland area with extensive views. A seventeenth-century house (TN034-025001) and bawn (TN034-025002) lie to the NW and a ringwork castle (TN034-025004) lies to the NE. Present remains consist of the wall-footings of a two-room single-pile rectangular house site (ext. dims. 18.4m N-S; 8.9m E-W; wall T 0.9m) with a doorway in the centre of the W wall which gives direct access to the large N room. A partition wall divides the N room from the smaller S room. A possible drain outlet in the SE angle of the S wall suggests the possible use of the building as a byre."
It makes sense that it was built on a rock outcrop as that seems to be the reason it has fallen down as the foundations settled over the years.


In Cois Deirge (a local historical journal mainly dealing with the lakeside areas) a piece about the castle was written in 1990 - the main parts that I can see that may relate to a fairy mound is the mention of music being heard and also the finding of a large slab of stone.

"Some stories of ghosts were also connected with the old ruins. Years ago an old resident in the adjoining locality used to say that a sow & bonhams could be heard in the castle at certain times of the year. Strong sound of music could be heard on other occasions. But the most unusual incident ever heard of took place on one occasion.

It was believed that there were a couple of pots of gold hid underneath the floor of the castle. One day two young fellows set out to get this hoard of wealth. They dug down a few feet, and then came upon a big stone slab. They were certain that the treasure was near at hand. They lifted the stone a small bit. Then they got the "shock of their lives". From underneath the stone out came a huge bird cock shape, and black as a slowe. He flew at one of the boys and picked him on the face. They he flew away and never seen afterwards. The boy took ill and died in a few days. But the treasure was never discovered"

I have reproduced the full article here as the journal is very difficult to get a hold of these days.

From Cois Deirge 1990

"Cullohill Castle is situated in about three mile North West of Borrisoleigh village. The ruinous state of the ancient fortress is on a hillock overlooking the main Nenagh Thurles highway. It was a two storey building and the foundation was cut out of solid rock, which forms part of the north side wall to a height of about thirty feet and the masonary just sits on top. This portion is thirty feet by sixty and has pointed gables, height about forty feet. Adjoining the north wall is a strong square building, thirty feet, by thirty four. This was apparently the castle dungeon. Said to was erected in the thirteenth century, about 1260 (approx). Greater part of the ruin now standing appears to have been erected in the 15/16 century. The castle figured constantly in the strife between the O'Dwyers and the De Burges from the 13th to the 15th century when peace was made between the two families. Walter Bourke married Sheila na Guira. Local tradition tells us that Sheila resided at Cullohill castle where she committed numerous deeds which could hardly be recorded publicly. Known by name as Sheila na Guira numerous tales are still told of her harsh treatment towards those who incurred her hostility, e.g. some of her enemies when captured were placed in a barrel, the interior spiked and then rolled down the steep slope neath the castle walls, a painful departure from torture within the castle walls. Other victims were flung into huge containers of boiling oil and roasted to death.

Sheila had a sister (name Christian unknown) who according to the report from Sheila herself had a "moral relapse". She was punished according to reports published at the time. Sheila ordered her to be suspended from the top of the castle, stripped naked, and roasted to death with boiling oil poured over her body from couldrons.

On another occasion she ordered her so called troops to raid a local chieftains residence and bring the loot back to her. They obeyed her orders. The loot was brought to the castle, where it was placed in a strongroom. The following morning Sheila invited the officers in charge of the raiding party to jjoin her at breakfast. When breakfast was over the officers were taken into an adjoining room. That was the end of the day for them. They were set upon and murdered. Another of the tyrants deeds. It was believed she was afraid that they would divulge the secret of the hidden treasure.

Sheila was a sister of Dermot O'Dwyer, Cloneyhap. It is necessary to point out that a family named Bourke resided in another castle nearby. About one mile north west of Cullohill castle, in the townland of Currabaha there was the name Leobold Bourke. It appears that there was a traditional fued between this man Bourke and Dermot O'Dwyer, of Cloney harp (Drombane district) O'Dwyer attacked this stronghold of Bourke but failed to take it and had to withdraw to his own territory. Tradition tells us that O'Dwyer remained in hiding outside the castle after his forces had withdrawn. A short time afterwards Bourke and his young son came out of the castle and into open ground. Suddenly they were set upon by O'Dwyer and Bourke was badly injured and his son was killed. Finally peace was made between the Bourkes and O'Dwyers. Sheila married Walter Bourke. Walter was out lived by Sheila. He died in 1623 and Theobold Bourke died in 1634.

Sheila was killed by one of her own soldiers. Each morning she would come to the front of the caste wall and look over her territory. This morning she came to take her usual look around. Suddenly there was heard a loud cry and they her lifeless body was found on the ground beneath the castle walls. She was buried in Glenkeen cemetary.

Other tales are told about this female tyrant. The old tale that still survives is worth relating. In a townland about four miles west of Cullohill there lived an old man Reeney Ryan. He was the father of a big family - 22 sons. He met Sheila one day as he was journeying through the district. They talked awhile and then an argument started between them. Shiela challenged Reeney to muster his men and fight he trained soldiers on a certain date. Old Reeney accepted the challenge. The forces met in a place called Knockane dearg, about two miles east of Cullohill. There was a fierce battle all day long. Towards evening Reeney's forces were getting the upper hand &  Sheila retreated to her stronghold at Cullohill. Those who were killed in the battle were buried where they had fallen. It was said that small mounds mark the spot where the battle was fought.

There was a small lake at the rear of the castle, but no trace of this remains, with the exception of a hollow about forty feet in diameter. It is said that the lake water is flowing from a rock on the slope of a nearby quarry.

Some stories of ghosts were also connected with the old ruins. Years ago an old resident in the adjoining locality used to say that a sow & bonhams could be heard in the castle at certain times of the year. Strong sound of music could be heard on other occasions. But the most unusual incident ever heard of took place on one occasion.

It was believed that there were a couple of pots of gold hid underneath the floor of the castle. One day two young fellows set out to get this hoard of wealth. They dug down a few feet, and then came upon a big stone slab. They were certain that the treasure was near at hand. They lifted the stone a small bit. Then they got the "shock of their lives". From underneath the stone out came a huge bird cock shape, and black as a slowe. He flew at one of the boys and picked him on the face. They he flew away and never seen afterwards. The boy took ill and died in a few days. But the treasure was never discovered."



Wednesday 2 August 2017

Tonn Tinne



The other prominent "Fire Hill" visible from Uisneach in Tipperary is Tonn Tinne. Now Tonn Tinne also has many other claims to fame other than this.
During the middle ages, chroniclers when recording the story of the origins of the Irish are thought to have grafted a Biblical origin onto the story linking the first Irish people to Old Testament stories. The story goes that the first Irishman was Fintan mac Bochra who came with his 5 wives to Ireland before the Biblical Flood. One of Fintan's wives was Cessair the grand-daughter of Noah.
What has this got to do with Tonn Tinne near Portroe I hear you ask? Well after the flood, Fintan was the only survivor as he managed to hide in a cave on Tonn Tinne known as Fintans Grave.
Next Wikipedia says "He then turned into an eagle and then a hawk then back to human form. He lived for 5500 years after the Deluge, becoming an advisor to the kings of Ireland. In this capacity he gave advice to the Fir Bolg king Eochaid mac Eirc when the Tuatha Dé Danann invaded, and fought in the first Battle of Magh Tuiredh.
He survived into the time of Fionn mac Cumhail, becoming the repository of all knowledge of Ireland and all history along with a magical hawk who was born at the same time as him. They meet at the end of their lives and recount their stories to each other. They decide to leave the mortal realm together sometime in the 5th century, after Ireland was converted to Christianity."
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fintan_mac_B%C3%B3chra
Now why the chroniclers picked Tonn Tinne as the location of Fintan's Grave is not known. However I would imagine they may have borrowed from some other story or myth linking a flood at this location.
On the sloop of Tonn Tinne is of course the "Graves of the Leinstermen" which is recorded as a megalithic structure. I've written before that it may have been a Neolithic court-tomb.
http://thetipperaryantiquarian.blogspot.ie/…/graves-of-lein…
There is also a bronze age hillfort less than 500m away at Laghtea and of course the Capstone of the King of Leinster is another monument in the vicinity which is not fully understood.
http://thetipperaryantiquarian.blogspot.ie/…/the-capstone-o…
So it could be that the Graves of the Leinstermen are the remains of Fintan's Grave. It could also be that there is another unknown monument waiting to be discovered under the peat on the summit or slopes of Tonn Tinne or even an actual Cave. However I did a brief check of the underlying geology of the area and it appears that it isn't conductive to the formation of Caves.
As we mentioned before the meaning of Tonn Tinne is either "Wave of Fire" or "Grave of a person". The 2nd could link it into the story of Fintan.

Edit
Other folklore relating to Tonn Tinne
From Ballina/Boher: Our History and Traditions" by Kevin M. Griffin and Kevin A. Griffin. Thanks to Joanne Hinz for passing these on to me.

pg 39 "Another extraordinary story about the Graves of the Leinstermen comes from the Book of Leinster, and is also mentioned in other ancient sources, which call the site 'Firt Fintan.' According to the ancient writers, Fintan was said to have slept here and he slept so soundly and so well that the Great Flood of the Bible failed to wake him or drown him! Later he used to wake up at intervals telling the history of the past, and collecting that of later times. Because of this he was considered to be the main transmitter of the remote story or ancient history of Ireland." 

This comes from a footnote in Westropps account in the Proceedings of the Royal Irish Academy. Section C: Archaeology, Celtic Studies,
History, Linguistics, Literature, Vol. 29 (1911/1912), pp. 186-212 - see page 211.

pg 19 "Tountinna; Tone Tinne: "Wave of fire or Hill of the wave."  "This is Tul Tuine, Hill of the Wave--the place where Fintan was buried... In the N.E. end of parish. It chiefly consists of mountain. On the N.E. are two small lakes and a trig. Station, 1500 feet above low water at the sea. Bounded on the N. by the parish of Youghal Arra." 

The nearby townland of Townlough Upper & Lower splits the townland which the Capstone of the King of Leinster is in from the townland of the Graves of the Leinstermen. Townlough itself translates as Tuaim Locha or basically burial place by the lake or perhaps burial mound by the lake but there is no record of any such monument in that townland