I visited Duharrow, or “the mountainous country,” in the
Barony of Owney and Arra,, County of Tipperary, this day (Sunday, July 12th,
1868). I was accompanied by train to Killaloe by Mr. Tr____y and M____c, and,
having written to Mr. Tu____y the night before to procure a care, which he
failed in doing, we got a good car, of which we bargained with the owner, Miss,
Tu____y, of Ballina to convey us to Duharrow, in order to view the tombs and
monuments in the old church-yard of Castletown Arra. The drive was exceedingly
beautiful. We passed on, leaving Derry Castle, the residence of William
Spaight, Esq., Castlelough, the residence of A. Parker, Esq., &c., &c.,
to the left ; and charmed with the view of the opposite shore of O’Gonnelloe,
including Tinerranna &c. through which we drove last Sunday on our way to
Inniscealtra.* When we had got below Aughanish, we obtained a view of the Holy
Island; but in the distance, the day being somewhat dull, though excessively
sultry, we were not able, even with the aid of our excellent glass, to catch a
fair glimpse of the Round Tower and other objects of interest on the island.
The view from the highlands we were traversing is grand indeed; Lough Derg is
under you. The well wooded and picturesque shores of the Lake present a
glorious landscape which can scarcely be excelled in grandeur and in beauty.
Derry Castle is a noble demesne; the ancient Castle is situated on a small
island close by the shore, and is called Derry (on account of the multiplicity
of oak trees which abound, everywhere about, even to this day), as is also
Castlelough, and the castle of Garry Kennedy, higher up. These Castles, &c.
have been sung of in the late Thomas Davis’s spirit stirring Ballad of the Mc
Y-Briens of Arra :--
To give him the CEAD MILE FAILTE
At Castletown, a new church has been built in what may be
called a rustic Gothic style. Here there is a large sarcophagus of lime stone
which contains the mortal remains of the son and daughter of William Spaight,
Esq., of Derry Castle, and of his mother-in-law, Mrs. Barton. We wended our way
by a different road to the old churchyard of Castletown, where we visited the
tomb of Terence Brian, and where we were engaged for a period nearly two hours
in taking a rubbing of it. We succeeded in taking the rubbing; but we did not
succeed at first in making out the meaning of the very puzzling inscription
which is cut in raised letters on a granite slab, and which is in the Latin
language thus :-
The word “Etimologia” in this epitaph, which bears internal evidence
of having been written by a schoolmaster, and which, I believe, had never been
translated before now, refers to the root of the word “monumentum” viz. moneo,
“I recall to memory” represented by the word “memorie” which occurs afterwards.
The literal English is as follows, the bracketed words, being defaced, are
supplied by us as the missing letters, and the figures being broken, enough,
however remains of them to enable one to make a pretty sure guess @---
“I, Terence Brien, caused this monument to be made in memory
of myself and my wife, Morine Caryll by name. According to its derivation it is
made by me for memory’s sake (this day of nno), 1579.”
The word Morine means Matilda, and is a diminutive.
The churchyard is beautifully situated in a valley on the
well-wooded and well-cultivated slope which descends from the road called the
New Line to the water’s edge. The remains of the church may be styled a new
ruin, giving one the idea of a re-edited building, roughly plastered over so as
to conceal the stone of which it was originally built. The wall of the old
church, as it appeared before receiving the repairs which have now crumbled
away in their turn, appears externally near the tomb of Terence Mc Y’Brien,
Arra, who lived in the time of Elizabeth and whose epitaph cost us considerably
more time and trouble to decipher than the inscriptions on far older monuments.
The other remarkable monuments, belonging chiefly to the respectable family of
the Parkers of Castlelough, but the Celtic element to which the Mc Y-Brien
family, no doubt, largely contributed is numerously represented ; for, on the
south side almost every grave is filled by a native of the name of O’Brien, a
name which was at one time, and I believe still is, very widely diffused
through the barony. This barony was indeed the country of the Mc Y-Briens, the
descendants of Brian Rua, King of Thomand ; the north portion belonged to the
Mc Y-Brians of Arra – the south to the Mc Y-Brien – O’Gunogh, sands Owney,
where it adjoined the county of Limerick. In a MS Pedigree of the 17th
century, in the British Musuem, there is shown the descent of the Mc Y-Brians
of Arra and of O’Gunogh, through Brian Boroihne, ? Monarch, from his two sons
Dermod, - Mr Y-Brien Arra, and Kenedi – Mc Y Brienogunogh and in this pedigree
Turlough Mc Y-Brian, Arra, is stated to have been alive in 1613. That this was
the Turlough or Terence whose name is inscribed as the person who caused the
above monument to be erected to his own and the memory of his wife, Morine
Carrul, or O’Carroll one of the illustrious family of the O’Carrolls of Ely, is
very likely, if not quite certain. It is a curious fact, indeed, and one which
cannot be passed over in the course of this history, that the McBriens of Arra,
especially, bear, to this day, in the traditions of the people, the character
of a fierce, unrelenting, if not a cruel and violent race of ?, who ruled an
iron hand, in feudal style whose slaves trembled at their nod, and in whose
hands the privilege of life and death rested.
The last of the Mc Y-Briens, like the Macarthy Mores, was
killed by a fall from his horse. Some of family papers were long in the
possession of an illegitimate son of his, and passed into the hands of a son of
the latter, with whom the race died out. A terrible curse is said to have been
pronounced upon the last Mc Y-Brien – I mean the Brien who was killed by a fall
from his horse – by a widow whose son he had caused to be hanged, cruelly
saying to her that “now he was very quiet, indeed”. The curse was :---
Go enimigh Mauria go saggart
Go enimigh Bredha leis baccagh
Agus enimigh ? Y-Brien,
As Duharra ? ? ar shulcht ar schlata
“That Mary, one of his daughters, might die without the
benefit of clergy, and the other, Bridget, go common with the beggars; and that
the seed of Mc Y-Brien might leave Duharrow from generation and generation and
generation”. Both events took place.
I have been told by a very old man who remembered the last
female of this branch that she one day called out in the chapel to the priest
“was he going to allow some upstart family or other to occupy the place in
front, which had always belonged to the great Mc Y-Briens?”
In our next chapter on this subject we will give from the
Book of Distribution an interesting account of the wholesale dispersion by
Cromwell of this race, as well from Duharrow as from Owney. There are a few
remarkable modern tomb stones in the old churchyard :---
A Greek Cross
The words
Faith, Hope and Charity
Cut on the sections of the wheel.
This Cross was erected by
The
Revd. Hugh Gleeson
Atribute of Affection to his beloved father
Michael Gleeson
On the 14th of March, 1864
Aged ? Years
May His Soul Rest in Peace
Amen
Richardson, Limk.
The following is rather curious :--
Erected by Patt
Molony in memo
ry of his posterity
And this
Gloria in Excelsis Deo.
A Greek Cross.
This monument erected
By Michael Renahen in
Memory of his daughter,
Sally Renahen who de
Parted this life December
The 4th, 1823, Aged Six months
May she rest in peace.
(To be continued).
The Tipperary Vindicator and Limerick Reporter, Tuesday
Evening, May 4, 1869
Reminiscences of a journalist and notes on old events
No. CCLXXV (275)
(Written for the Reporter and Vindicator)
Collections for a history of the Dalcassians
Killaloe – No. XIX
Though I have not my notes as to the Annals and Bishops of
this ancient diocese, put in shape as yet for publication, I may state that
they are in progress and that I hope to have them fully prepared in the course
of the present, or of the next month. Meantime I may observe that an extremely
interesting relic of the old days of the Dalcassian Chiefs remains in the
ruined church and cemetery of Temple-a-Calla, to which I have already made
reference, but which demands a particular description. It is situated on the
hill opposite to that on which Cloughnahena? stands, both hills being divided
by the hollow through which the mill stream passes to the Shannon it has all
the marks and tokens of remote age about it. It forms a remarkable feature in
the landscape which embraces the Cathedral and crypt, the river as it flows
onwards in its bright and sparkling joyousness, the bridge, the lake, the town,
the fortress of Brian Boroihme, and those other objects of interest which we
trust we have made the reader familiar. I confess that I stood on evening with
more than ordinary attention whilst I looked at a well-dressed, and apparently
a well informed stranger, gazing on this charming avenue, and taking his pencell
and sketch book, and studiously tracing the outlines of a picture of which he
may have never before seen anything in his wanderings to surpass, if to equal.
There is no record of the time in which Temple-a-Calla was built, but it would
seem, at all events, to be contemporaneous with Cloughuafina? And to have bestowed
upon it, more than an ordinary share of attention at the hands of the
architect. According to the opinion of William Atkins, Esq., of Cork, an
accomplished and well known architect, and a true lover of the antiquities of
his country. Temple-a-Calla possesses one of the finest Roman (or Romanesque)
windows of any ancient church in Ireland. The church itself gives its name to
the Parish, a rather extensive one in the county of Tipperary and diocese of
Killaloe. I should premise that there are two windows only in the church, viz.
this to which I have just now referred, and which I shall call the oriel
window, and another which faces the river, which is low down, and through which
appears the branches of an aged ivy tree which has crept all over the walls,
and which threatens at no distant date, to inflict permanent mischief on them,
unless some devoted friends to these fine monuments of other days, should do
with the parasite as the Earl of Dunraven most patriotically did with the
superincumbent weight of ivy which menaced the destruction of “the Friars’
Castle” in the small island, at a short distance. It is in this churchyard that
may be seen the tomb of Dr. Hickie, one of the most celebrated physicians of
the seventeenth century, which is fully described in the “Fee Book of a
Physician of the seventeenth century”, by the present writer. The following are
the inscriptions on some of the more modern tombstones within the walls of the
church
No.1
Ego Jacobus McCormack, pastor de Kibbarorn, Terryglass at Finnoe,
quasi solstitialis herbs, pauilisper fui repente exorsus sum, repention occidi
die ?, anno reparatoe salutis, 1815, orats pro me et requiescamus noe omnes in
pace ____ Amen
No. 2
Here lieth the body of the Rev. Father Patrick McCormack,
who departed his life January the 5th, in the year of our Lord,
1797, aged 56 years. Lord have mercy on his soul _____ Amen
No. 3
The Rev. Father Moras McCormick departed this life September
1st, 1827, aged 75 years ____ May his soul rest in peace ____ Amen.
No. 4
Here lies the body of John Cormick, who deceased February
the 6th, 1767, aged 61 years.
No. 5
Here lies the body of Thady Cormick, deceased June the 1st,
1753, aged 44 years.
No. 6
Here lieth the body of Cornelius Cormick, deceased January
28th, aged 32 years, 1767.
No. 7
Here lieth the body of John Cormick, deceased August the 14th,
1760, aged 14 years.
No. 8
Here succeeds the father, L. Cormick, who departed this
life, May the 10th, 1785, aged 70 years. The Lord have mercy on
their souls _____ Amen
No. 9
Here lies the body of Maurice Cormick, deceased April 5th,
aged 79 years, 1747.
No. 10
Here lieth the body of Mathew McKeogh, deceased November the
11th, 1773, aged 63 years.
No. 11
Here lies the body of Conner McKeogh, deceased May the 4th,
1757, aged 72 years.
No. 12
Here lieth the body of Murtough Brien, deceased October the
25th, 1751, aged 75 years.
No. 13
Here lieth the body of Cornelius Flannery deceased December
the 19th, 1773, aged 84 years.
No. 14
Here lies the body of Bridget Glisan, deceased December 4th,
1763, aged 55 years.
No. 15
Here lies the body of James Glison, deceased June the 15th,
1784, aged 38 years. Erected by his wife, Mary Byrns.
No. 16
Connor Glisan, 1734.
No. 17
Conr. Brien died March the 1st, 1784, aged 53 years.
No. 18
Here lies the body of Jone Carrrell, deceased October 9th,
1783. Aged 36 years. Erected by M.N. her husband.
All these inscriptions are within the Church. There are very
many curious tombstones in the cemetery itself, to which I shall refer in the
next chapter. There include that of the “most skilled” Doctor Hickie, who
forfeited in 1641, among the “Irish Papists” of those times, and who was one of
a family of illustrious medical men, who were attached for ages as “body
physicians” to the O’Briens of Thomond, the Mc I Briens, of Arra. I could
discover no trace of these Hickies in the district, though I made an anxious
search for them. The name is derived from “Iche”, a cure; no better one for a
doctor ; and that it is a Dalcassian name there is no doubt ; it appears among
the names of the Dalcassian families in Cronnelly’s curious compilation.
(To be Continued)
The Tipperary Vindicator and Limerick Reporter, Tuesday
Evening, June 1, 1869
Reminiscences of a journalist and notes of old events
No. CCLXXXI (281)
(Written for the Reporter and Vindicator)
Killaloe – No. XXI
A Visit to Birdhill and Kilmastulla
I visited Birdhill and Kilmastulla this day, Sunday, August
23rd 1868, with Mr. T___. The day was fine. We first proceeded on our way to
view the churchyard of Kilmastulla, about one mile and a half from
Birdhill. On our way, Mr. T ____ related
and anecdote of one Gorlaugh O’Cullane, who is said to have been a contemporary
of Brian Borhoime. Gorlaugh’s mother, it appears, was drowned, owing to the
fact that she endeavoured to make a short cut home by fording a river, into which she fell, and where she
remained.
Gorlaugh’s wise saying was this: - ‘Bliaghin agus la enew do
baghagh mo mathair agus do veich so teumpoil ochen’’ – ‘’This day twelve
month’s my mother was drowned: and she would be round the road home
since’’.
The Gorlaugh had a step-mother who was accustomed to make a
cake for him which always had a slate in the middle of it. His observation was
: -‘Bareliom go miach mo liach leith a gum ma coise meithe agum agus me um
chollagdh’’ - ‘I wished my slate were
licked, my feet were washed, and I was in bed’’.
He told me an anecdote of the Gobbain Saor. When dying, one
of his sons informed the Saor that a certain castle which he had built was
falling or had fallen. Impossible, said
the Saor, because ‘ceid agus ceid, agus caid air ca caid’ – meaning ‘ a stone
and a stone, and a stone of two stones’’. This affords us some notion of the
way in which this famous artificer is supposed to have built his strong
edifices. It is further said of him that he grouted all his buildings – and
that he was never in a hurry in laying one course over another until the first
course had had time to settle and become consistent - and that his contracts for castle building extended all over Munster.
Mr. Marcus Keane told
me some time ago that the Gubaun Saor is spoke of all over Ireland in the
tradition of people as the builders of Round Towers & c.
At Kilmastulla Bridge, there is an inscription:
Kilmastulla Drainage
1865-6
Brenna & Costello,
Contractors.
In Kilmastulla churchyard, there are no old monuments or
tombstones. The first tombstone that met our eye is one of antique shape lying
flat on the ground:
Eliza Franks
Died March 1862
The following inscription is on a raised tombstone:
HIS
ERECTED
To the Memory of The Revd B. O’Brien D.D
One of the Knights of Malta
Chaplain to Louis the 16th of France
Who departed this life
28th December 1828
Aged 86 years
Requicescat in pace.
Who this Rev. B O’Brien, a Knight of Malta was, we have not
been able to ascertain, I should like indeed to know some particulars of the Reverend
gentleman, but the tombstone being close to another, which was erected by the
late Mr. Cornelius O’Brien of Limerick,
an extensive book-seller and stationer, who was well known in the city, and
much respected, we may conjecture that the Rev. B O’Brien D.D Knight of Malta
was some relative of his. The second tombstone has the following inscription;
Here Rest
THE REMAINS of
Mary O’Brien
The beloved wife of
Cornelius O’Brien
Of Limerick
Who dies Decr. 24 1831
Aged 30 years
May she rest in peace.
Con O’Brien, as he was familiarly called, is buried I
believe in the same tomb.
There are a few other tomb-stones:
O! Lord have mercy on
The soul of Patk Meara
Who dept. this life in
The 40th year of his
Age, interred the 6th
Of February Anno Dei 1831
R.I.P
The other tomb-stones we noticed have the following
inscriptions :
O Lord have mercy on the
soul of Edmd Meara who
dept this life in the 91st
year of his age ; interred
the 17th Der anno Dei 1831
R.I.P ____ Amen
Erected by Ths. Meara of Bally
Cakhane in memory of his
Mother Mary Meara alias
(Here a flat tombstone lies up against the foregoing and
prevents the inspection of the remainder of the inscription. )
On the flat lying
tombstone is the following:
This tomb was erected by
Timothy Meara in
Memory of his father Ed.
Meara who departed this
life in the 91st year of his age
Interred the 17th day of
December Anoo Dei 1832 O Lord
Have mercy on his soul
Near the gate as you enter to the right is a tombstone with
the following inscription:
Erected by
William Donohue
In memory of his wife
Betty Curdew
Who departed this life August 1818
Aged 40 years
May she rest in peace ____ Amen.
There is a tomb to a person named Ryan, dated 1817, near
this, but in no instance could we discover one of ancient date, though the
remains of an old church are visible within the cemetery.
Just opposite Kilmastulla Church was a large house, well
known about 20 years ago, and within a shorter period of time, to coach
travellers on the Dublin road, as the place occupied by Mr. Bourne, as stables,
&c., & c., which was built by, and had been the residence of one of the
Mac I Briens of Arra, who exercised feudal sway in the district. The house was
3 storeys high and had 3 rows of windows in the front; there was a set off to
the house, in which tradition has it that the Mac I Brien of the day threw the
bodies of his victims, after summarily despatching them in the most treacherous
manner. The site is now occupied by the farm-house and offices of a farmer
named Healy, who possesses considerable property here. A man names Brien
O’Brien, who was said to have been the last of the family, but who, in reality
came from an illegitimate son, was resident some 20 years ago at Gurtlass (or
the fortified field). It is evident that the Mac I Briens were exceedingly
unpopular all over the district. The tradition of the hanging of the poor
woman’s son by a Mac I Brien, prevails generally, and is repeated by all the
old people.
We now went some short distance north of the church and
crossed over a rather swampy field and passed a stream until we reached a bye
road which leads to Ballina and Boher – on turning over a hedge we passed into
the field called Green Hill, or as tradition has it ‘’ Conc na Croice’, the
‘’hill of the gallows’’. This hill is about 400 yards north of Kilmastulla
church and commands a very extensive view of the country in every direction, as
well towards Limerick as towards Nenagh, and the entire range of the Clare
mountains about Killaloe, &c. &c. On the top of the hill where the
fatal tree had been erected by the tyrant Mac I Brien, of the day, there is the
site of a deep pit, which used to be filled with water, until Michael Herbert,
a farmer who rents the land from Lord Dunally, drained it by cutting a trench
six feet deep, some years ago, but even that did not effect his object sufficiently.
Whilst making the drain his sons descended into the pit which was like the flue
of a large lime kiln and there saw 3 or 4 beams standing on end all inclining
towards each other on the top, and which the found it impossible to remove. The
field now (August 23rd), is occupied by wheat stooks; but over the pit there is
a quantity of black dismal looking wheat growing, which would appear determined
never to come to perfection. The buttons of the coats or clothes of some
persons are said to have been taken out of this deep pit some years ago by the
individuals who were digging for manure; and whose bodies are supposed to have
been thrown into it in 1738. The pit is eight
yards in diameter; and 38 yards in the oval. An old countryman named Meara, who
accompanied us, said it reminded him of the old ballad
’40 years in length; and deep did it sink
And filled it with the corpses of our heroes
When their precious blood did run,
Then the Tories thought it fun,
And their err was to murder all the Papists’
There is little or no surface on the hill but the ‘laac
leigh’ or ‘hard gravel’ and the impression it leaves on the foot is very disagreeable.
We now walked back to Birdhill, ‘Cnoc a neneen’ and having
ascended the hill, we went through fields covered all over with mushrooms to
Carrigeen, the celebrated rock on which it is said Ossian stood when he threw
the ball into the gorge of his dog, Bran, after the dog had killed the great
monster bird which had threatened the existence of all the birds and fowl on
Moan a Lua. Ossian is said to have buried his bugle under the huge red sand
stone rock. The view from Carigeen is literally
enchanting and it embraces a vast distance , particularly to the south and
south west where all South Tipperary and the beautiful valley of the Suir,
Limerick, portions of Cork, Kerry and Clare were within the range of a
good …with which we were provided. The
Cappoquin mountains, Cnocmealdoun & c are quite easily discerned. The
Galtees, Kilworth and other mountains appear very near. On the other side, the
view of Killaloe, Lough Derghdebeer… & c cannot be surpassed. Indeed it is
impossible to see the landscape without being charmed with all that it embraces
at every side. The people say that Ossian is buried in the hill and that a
holly bush marks the site of his grave. But Ossians grave is said by others to
be in another part of Ireland
(To be continued).
The Tipperary Vindicator and Limerick Reporter, Tuesday
Evening, June 8, 1869
Reminiscences of a journalist and notes of old events
No. CCLXXXII (282)
(Written for the Reporter and Vindicator)
Collections for a history of the Dalcassians
Killaloe – No. XXII
A Visit to the Graves of the Leinstermen
I visited Killaloe this day (Sunday, October 4th,
1868 with M_____ We were met at the
railway terminus by Mr. T_________ After a short consultation we resolved to
proceed to visit the “Graves of the Leinstermen” at which I had been three or
four years before, in company with Mr. W. C_____, Mr. S. H_______ and the late
well informed, and genial hearted, and friendly Mr. J. O’G______. Our way on
Sunday last was by what is called “the middle” or more correctly speaking , the
upper road between Killaloe or Ballina rather, and Nenagh. A very hilly,
mountainous road, offering, here and there, some noble glimpses of scenery,
particularly of the valley of the Shannon, as it stretches between Killaloe and
Limerick, and further on towards the sea. The day was pleasant, ripe, autumnal
day ; bright, crisp, agreeable. Another road diverges to the right, about a
mile from Ballina, and by this way we proceeded, leaving to the left the direct
or middle road to Nenagh, to which I have just referred. We passed the Model
Agricultural School, which is situated almost fronting the two roads diverging
here ; and now passing the Model School, we got again on the direct road to
Nenagh, and pursued our course rather pleasantly, ? all the way the side of
Tountinna, (wave of fire) mountain, until we reached a very considerable eminence,
the view becoming more expansive and interesting as we got along. In the far
distance were discoverable the lofty peaks of the Galtee mountains, which may
be said to form landmarks all over north Munster, and a large portion of
Desmond. On our way up the hill, three country lads, who were seated on a
hedge, informed us, as we were already aware, that we were not far from the
“Graves of the Leinstermen”; they appeared to be quite well acquainted with
them. Having driven about half a mile further on, admiring the mountain which
was quite close, and which we could now easily approach, by a road which seemed
within a few hundred yards of us, we came to the wished for spot, of which we
were in search, and which is divided from the main road by a trench and hedge,
about four or five feet high, and somewhat deep, and which is rather thickly
cut with furze. We entered the heath covered field in which these ancient
graves are rather irregularly placed, and examined them, with the aid of one of
the country lads, who pointed out to us the graves and head stones, stating
that, according to the tradition of the country they had always heard that the
stones they showed us were over the graves – and that a good number of small
rocks and boulders which appear, here and there in close proximity to the
gravestones, should not be confounded with the latter. There are marks on the
largest of these gravestones, like Ogham characters ; but they are not such on
examination. The other stones are lower in size ; and a few of them are nearly
covered with the purple heath which grows thickly all about the mountain.
These stones number seven in all ; they are placed
irregularly through the filed at distances of ten or fifteen or more feet
apart. In reference to these Graves of the Leinstermen, which are noticed in
Lenihan’s History of Limerick, p. 45. It should be further mentioned that about
half a mile beyond them in the N. E. is the gap called Barnane Maclauahahin Mac
Reighe Leighane ____ “the gap of the son of the king of Leinster,” one of these
who fell on the occasion which the Graves memorialise ___ vis. In the pursuit
of these Leinstermen in 1194 by Donald O’Brien, who drove them out of Thomond,
and defeated the last of them just at this spot. They were commanded by the son
of the king of Leinster ___ and he, wounded and dying, sought that the should
be brought to the gap, from which he said he would see his own country, before
he died. We drove to the gap ; and there is no doubt that the view from it is
exceedingly noble, interesting, diversified, and heart stirring. Lower Ormond,
belted by the Barnane Ely, Slievebloom and other mountains, lies before you
like a carpet, exquisitely wrought. The view stretches up to the King’s and
Queen’s counties, and beyond them. Nenagh lies about seven miles distant ; the
great Slate Quarries, at Corbally, are in full work within a few hundred yards
of the road. The expanse of Loughdergh shows Dromineer, Parker’s Point, Hazel
Point, Urra, up to Portumna, the opposite shore of Aughanish, O’Gonnelloe, the
Holy Island, with its churches, Round Tower &c.
Great stone heap which had marked the grave of the son of
the king of Leinster ; and about 10 years ago, the bones supposed to be those
of the prince, were taken from under the Liosmore ___ and brought into Killaloe
by a man of the name of Cormack, who is said to have had such ill luck in
consequence that he died a few days after the removal of them. In this district
is also are pointed out Leachtnagrass, about a mile from Killaloe, near Boher,
where Leachtas, another son of the king of Leinster was slain ; Keillan, near
Bushfield, and Quilla, towards Shallee, where two others, sons of the Lagenian
king were also killed. Having viewed the splendid panorama which stretched
before us as far as the eye could reach, we returned by the same routs ; and
now keeping to the right of the Model School, we drove on the direct middle
road or upper road, and came to a place where there are two Forts of Lisnagry.
In the middle of the large of the Forts there was an old country chapel, about
30 feet by 16 which was used in the Penal times by the Catholic worshippers of
the parish of Ballina, and here the people tell that each Christmas Eve,
candles are seen burning all night long. It is over two hundred years since the
chapel walls were taken down, as a man named O’Brien, whose father would, if
alive, be 90 years of age, states that he (the father) never remembered to see
the chapel there. He added that the grandfather of a man named Riordan, who
lives in the parish did speak of having seen the chapel standing. The forts are
quite close to each other, and are curious for that reason.
I should state in reference to the tallest of the grave
stones that it is smoothened very much by the rubbing of cattle against it, and
that there are crossed marked on the front of it. We returned by train after
and agreeable day.
(To be continued)
The Tipperary Vindicator and Limerick Reporter, Friday
Evening, October 29, 1869
Reminiscences of a journalist and notes of old events
No. CCCI (301)
(Written for the Reporter and Vindicator)
Collections for a history of the Dalcassians
In continuation from No. XXV
O’Brien, The first Protestant Bishop of Killaloe – How to
Borrow a Congregation
Now that the Establishment is disestablished, the
publication of the following anecdotes which are handed down by tradition in
Killaloe, may be of interest :-
We are told in Hamilton’s Calendary of the State Papers,
(temp. Elizabeth), that O’Brien, (Terence), was sent to Oxford to study, in
order to fit him for the Bishopric, and that he was the first Protestant Bishop
of Killaloe. It was almost impossible at the time, according to the same
authority, to procure fit men for the position of Anglican Prelates in certain
parts of Ireland. It is undeniable, however, that the new Bishop had no flock
of his own ; and having been informed that a government Inspector from London
would visit him on a certain occasion, to see, and examine, and report on the
state of his congregation, and really did not know what to do, in order to meet
the difficulty. In his misery, he went to the Priest, who resided some distance
from Killaloe, he being no longer permitted to reside in the town. Patronage
and authority were the motives of his conversion. He saw the Priest, made many
excuses, told him of the old love the O’Briens had for the old faith, and of
his peculiar position ; and at length he had the modesty to ask the Pastor for
a loan of his congregation for the Sunday on which the Inspector was to visit
the Cathedral. It was difficult in Thomond to resist the will of an O’Brien ;
and on this occasion, the request could scarcely be disobeyed. The Priest, too,
not anxious to throw a serious difficulty in the way of one who was no
persecutor, gave the word to the Corbans, Cooneys, the Poers, O’Deas &c, of
the parish, to be present at St. Flannan’s old Cathedral on the appointed day.
They obeyed, and when they saw the Bishop on his throne, and the Inspector in
his place, and when they heard the Bishop speak, began to cry out in a loud
voice “Glunthu aud a Shaun Poer?” (“Do you hear what he says, John Power?”) the
Inspector demanded of the Bishop what the congregation were saying? They are
saying nothing more, said the Bishop, than fine hymns, which they are repeating
in their native tongue – hymns and prayers and wishes for the long life and
substantial establishment of the church. The Inspector was satisfied. O’Brien
was confirmed in the temporalities of his see__ he gave leases in abundance to
his family and relatives, and thus made them rich at the expense of the church,
of which he was a very indifferent supervisor.
In the above instance, as in so many others, it will be
found that history has repeated itself, which is not at all surprising,
considering the scarceness of Protestant worshippers in many parts of Ireland.
The story of “borrowing a congregation” with which the
public are so familiar, from an amusing sketch written by one of our popular
novelists, is, as usual with most of the compositions by the same writer, not only
founded on fact, but actually true.
The name of the Protestant clergyman who was accommodated
pro tem, with a congregation drawn from the Catholic parishioners by the kind
permission of the Parish Priest, who was a great friend of the Parson’s, and who
wished to save his living from being consolidated with another, as it
inevitable would have been at the Bishop’s visitation, if it did not appear
that he had a bona fide number of parishioners in the habit of attending his
ministrations – the name of this clergyman was Maxwell, and I think his living
was in Erris.
He was uncle of Mr. Maxwell, the Novelist, who lived for
some time in his house in his younger days, and who has utilised this curious
transfer of human stock in a very humorous manner.
I think, if my memory does not deceive me, a similar story
is told in Moore’s life of Captain Rock, or in the private memoirs of the
Chieftain, published in the periodical called “Captain Rock in London”. But
that I am correct in my statement respecting the Rev. Mr. Maxwell, I have no
doubt, as the accuracy of my own recollections of the event, as heard in the
neighbourhood in which it took place, has been confirmed by a relative of the
principal performer in the farce ___ which relative is at present living.
There is something very pleasing as well as whimsical and
amusing in such a display of friendship between clergymen of antagonistic
churches, at a time when the laws and the institutions of the country, and the
very practices of society, were all colored with the blackest shade of
religious bigotry that has ever disgraced any age or country.
In continuation from No. 18, we give the following
inscriptions from tombstones in Temple-a-Calla churchyard :---
No. 1
Anno R.S.H
1648
Monumentum hoe
Uxori
Et posteris fieri
Fecit clarisumus
Medicine
Doctor peritimimus
This inscription is near the north eastern extremity of the
grave yard of Temple-a-Calla.
No. 2
Here lieth the body
Of the Reverd Father
Patrick McKeogh Pa
Rish Priest of this
Parish died. Aug the
10th 1760 aged 48 years
This inscription is nearly in the centre of the church
inside.
That of Father John McKeogh is close to the south, wall,
inside the church also, and is as follows:----
Derby McKeogh beneath this marble lies
Devout sincere just charitable wise
In time of famine kept the poor alive
And died regretted aged seventy-five
Interred in January sixty and seven
We hope his soul enjoys the bliss of heaven.
This inscription too is inside the church.
The following is the inscription on the tombstone of the
Rev. John McKeogh
Here lieth the body of the
Rev Father John McKeogh
Deceased 7 ber ye 16th 1761
Aged 72 years
(To be Continued)
The Tipperary Vindicator and Limerick Reporter, Tuesday
Evening, May 3, 1870
Reminiscences of a journalist and notes of old events
No. CCCIX (309)
(Written for the Reporter and Vindicator)
Collections for a history of the Dalcassians
The journey through Arra Cliach continued through Lower
Ormond To Youghal Arra
No. XXIX
(Text omitted here relating to
Ormond – DR)
We at length enter Arra Cliach, the parish of Youghal Arra,
in the barony of Owney and Arra, the shrine of our pilgrimage, the spot which
the antiquary loves to dwell on. We enter the thriving village of Portroe, or
the Red landing place, where we meet Irish hospitality and truly Irish welcome.
The hill over Portroe on the left is called Cnock-a-hoglish by some, and
Knockamucka by others. The older name I believe I Cnock-a-hoglish, as it is the
nearer to the name of the place in which it is, vis, Youghall, or Oughill, or
Oggilish, being respectively, the place of the yew trees, which formerly
abounded here and from which the parish of Youghall stands in designation, as
does the old borough of Youghall, in Cork County. The view from this eminence
is really superb : the Lake expands widely here, and the comp d’oeil which
takes in Inniscaltra and its round tower on the opposite shore, the stretch of
water from Portumna to Killaloe, the mountains of Clare and Galway, the
highlands of the barony itself, and the delightful parks of Castletown and
Landsdown, the residence of the Parker family ___ very good landlords and
excellent country gentlemen ___ in one of the most magnificent and really
“national” that can thrill the heard and make the Irishman love the old land
with undying affection. On the left is Ballingare, or Ballingree “the place of
the wilderness” the neat abode of the then respected old Parish Priest, the
Rev. Mr. Milane. The Bridge of Castletown, about half a mile from Portroe, has
inserted in its southern battlement a stone on which is pretty well sculptured
the figure of a horse, and its northern battlement a stone which is also pretty
well sculptured the likeness of a perch-fish. These bear records of the
sportsman, probably the late Anthony Parker Esq. under whom auspices very
likely, the bridge was erected. The last-mentioned battlement also contains a
slab on which is inscribed :____
Seven miles, one quarter, and
Twenty-nine perch to Nenagh
Four miles, one quarter, and
Eleven perch
To Killaloe
1801
Close by the bridge on the right at turn towards Lough
Deirghe-yierc is a glebe house, close to which a school-house has been erected.
At the opposite side of the road is a very handsome church and steeple, with a
weather-vane, &c, furnished with a lightning conductor. We now proceed to
examine a locality which is closely connected with Dalcassian memories, and
which possesses very great interest indeed for the antiquary and the historian
(To be Continued)
The Tipperary Vindicator and Limerick Reporter, Friday
Evening, May 6, 1870
Reminiscences of a journalist and notes of old events
No. CCCX (310)
(Written for the Reporter and Vindicator)
Collections for a history of the Dalcassians
Arra Cliach – The Slate Quarries – The Graves of the
Leinstermen, &c, &c.
No. XXX
We proceed with our decscription of Arra Cliach. About half
a mile south-west of Portroe is a small truncated fort on the townland of
Lisheen. Indeed the place takes its name from the fort ___ Liseen or Lisheen,
being the Irish for a small fort. About sixty yards from the fort are two
“gallans” or rude upright stones of granite or mill stone quartz. Each has a
smaller stone close by it ; there are two stones east and west of each other,
and thirty-six feet or twelve yard asunder. They are situated S.E. of the
truncated cone. We proceed to visit the Duat Arra (Douharra) slate quarries,
which are worked by Mr. Wm. Headech, of Clonybrien House, a gentleman who has
won the good opinion of the people as a kind-hearted neighbour and a good
employer ____ Some years ago, owing to differences between the labourers and
one of the stewards, the latter, an intelligent man named McDonnell, was fired
at and shot in the stomach. A man named Fogarty, as well as I remember the name
was tried by Chief Baron Brady at Nenagh Assizes ; and the attending Doctor (Dr. Dempster) having sworn
that the wound was dangerous to the life of McDonnell, and that there was no
hope of McDonnell surviving, the prisoner was sentenced to death ; and he was
hanged some few weeks afterwards in front of the County Gaol in Nenagh. Dr.
Dempster, of course, firmly believed what he swore ; and the attack on McDonnell
was, no doubt, a murderous one ; but the truth is that he (McDonnell) not only
survived the wound, but up to a late period, at all events for several years
afterwards, he lived in the enjoyment of the full ability to transact his
business at the quarries. Indeed I don’t know but that he may be alive to this
day. The scene at these quarries is wild and fearful in the extreme ; it at
once reminds you, not only of the “dangerous trade” of the samphire gatherer in
Shakespeare, but of the exceedingly perilous position of the bird-catcher on
the western coast of Clare, particularly at the cliffs of Moher. The men at
work in these extensive and highly-prosperous quarries are perched on iron
staples, which they drive into the rock while suspended from above by ropes ___
an appalling chasm lies beneath ___ an awkward movement one way or the other
might be attended with certain death. It is gratifying, however, to state that
accidents are exceedingly rare ; and that the local records mention but few of
them within the period of about thirty years that the quarries have been at
active work. Various qualities of ? are developed from these quarries ; the
chief part of them are highly recommended and in the best favor for building
purposes, and, I believe, Mr. Henry Ellis, the respectable and worthy agent of
the quarries, resident in Clare-street, Limerick, has been doing a thriving
business for the Company, and that every one speaks well of him and of his
satisfactory mode of dealing. I am happy to take occasion of the opportunity
presented to me to bear very willing testimony to the high character of Mr.
Henry Ellis. At the time of my visit to the quarries, and perhaps up to the
present moment, a large iron water wheel worked a mill, which grinds for the
use of the labourers employed ; raises loaded lorries by a chain running over
iron rollers on an inclined plane furnished with a railway. The mill wheel also
works a large crank, which pumps and keeps the quarry empty. I should state
that the quarry is on the side of Ballymillane mountain rises 1,127 feet above
the level of the sea. The quarries are over 500 feet above the sea. There is a
police barrack at Corbally, which was placed here to keep order among the
miners, who, indeed, it must be stated, are well conducted. From the quarries
our course lay in a pathway through the fields towards N.S.W., which led up the
mountain and brought us on the highroad leading to “the Gap” (a’ Barna), north
of the summit of Thomthinna (wave of fire) mountain, which is 1,517 feet over
the sea, and which is remarkable for the symbols of an ancient volcano and
crater-like cavity, now filled with water, and forming a mountain lake, to
which Captain Grantham, who was buried in Killaloe Cathedral, and who was a
scientific engineer and thorough sportsman, conveyed a boat to enjoy such
fishing as the lake produces. The gap is called in Irish “Barnane Meclaughiahin
Mac Reighe Leighnane” Half a mile west of the Gap are the “Graves of the
Leinstermen” at an elevation of 926 over the sea. I have before now referred to
these graves, and described them. In my History of Limerick I have given a full
account of them. They are large, rude, uninscribed stones, which I have
particularly noticed in Reminiscence No. CCLXXXII, 4th October,
1868, published on the 8th of June, 1869. This place is said to be
the site of a battle between the forces of Donal O’Brien and the men of
Leinster. The King of Leinster’s son (Maelaugshin) fell in the battle, and was
buried at a rock on Toumlock mountain, immediately over the gap, at an
elevation of 950 feet over the sea. The place of his internment is called
“Knockanreligan (the hillock of the single burial place) ___ Some years ago the
young King’s son’s bones were found here at the foot of the rock ; the skull
was taken away by a shopkeeper named McCormick from Killaloe who ominously died
there soon after. It is probable that this mountain takes the name Tomlock from
its being the place of the King’s son’s sepulture. “Tuaim” is the Irish for a
grave or burial place, and “leacht” is a sepulchral flag or carn of stone.
Tuamleacht was easily changed by Anglo corruption into Tomlock, the name given
to the place in the Patent of Charles II. ; and the Ordnance gentry corrupted
that again into Townlough ___ a horrid barbarism ; and, no doubt, thought it
bore some reference to Lough Deirg-yeric, which is seen from this point in all
its majesty and beauty. Tomlock is the estate of the highly respected Chairman
of Tipperary, Charles Rolleston, Esq., Q.C. (recently Charles Rolleston Spunner,
Q.C.), and than whom no advocate was more popular on the Leinster circuit for
many years. He succeeded John Hatcheel and Abrabam Brewater in the defence of
prisoners ; and I believe his latest but, alas ! most unsuccessful defence was
that of the unhappy brothers Cormack in Nenagh, whose trial and its attendant
circumstances caused a deep sensation, and the worst feelings among all who
witnessed or heard of it. Ballingeare or Ballingare is the name of the place
the Priest of Portroe or Castletown Arra resided at the time of this visit. At
the foot of the mountain, on the banks of Lough Deirg-yeric is a place called
“Balleeillareic” the town or house of the King’s grave. I returned by
Clonybrien. Here Mr. Headech, who works the quarries, lives __ a neat place,
newly walled in; opposite to his halldoor, at a distance of about fifty yards
is a delicious spring rising from under the base and fantastic roots of a huge
ash tree. This spring, like many others, was dedicated to the Patron Saint of
Ireland, and is known by the name of “Patrick’s Well”. On the roadside between
Clonybrian and Portroe, I found in plenty Salvia Alpina (mountain sage or
mountain ? ?), called in Wicklow “abair lish,” and “ubar sliab;” in Ulster “?
na fish” and “? Fihain” and “ever alainhe”. I should observe that part of the
mountain towards the Shannon is called Lough Tea___quere, “Liac Tig__carne
house. We shall not dwell on the many incidents of historic interest which are
suggested by the locality. They are numerous ; nor shall I linger longer on the
transcendent splendour of the scenery which charms the eye and elevated the
soul as we look North, South, East or West.
(To be Continued)
The Tipperary Vindicator and
Limerick Reporter, Tuesday Evening, May 10, 1870
Reminiscences of a journalist and notes of old events
No. CCCXI (311)
(Written for the Reporter and Vindicator)
Collections for a history of the Dalcassians
Youghall Arra – The Ancient Church and Graveyard – The
Holy Well of St. Coulan and its Trout – The Tombstone and Inscriptions, &c
No. XXXI
We now proceeded to a place called the precipices on the
Ordnance Survey Map of Tipperary No. 19. This place is on a small rivulet
running from the quarries into the Youghall river. The so called precipices are
only slight landslips occasioned by the mountain floods of the river. Pursuing
the course of the rivulet along the left bank, we arrive at Youghall Bridge,
which we crossed in the direction of Monroe (red bog), where there was a castle
some years ago, which fell about the year 1848___ a year fatal, it would seem,
to many castles in Tipperary ; and from thence we went to the ruinous church
and ancient burial ground of Youghall Arra. To our astonishment we found a
ball-alley in the burial ground amindst the graves! And no doubt many a rubber
has been played there, perhaps over the last resting places of those endeared
by the tenderest ties to the parties engaged in the active exercise ; but as I
have heard observed many years ago, by a wise person who was thoroughly
conversant with human nature in all its phases, the child, who is most fondly
attached to the parent in life, and who, soon after death, mourns and would not
be consoled for the loss, will dance on the grave-stone of that parent, and
think nothing of him or her “who sleeps the sleep that knows no waking,” as
time wears away the strong emotions of early grief, regretted to see this
venerable old church-yard indecently trampled over by a flock of geese and some
sheep. The Rev. Henry Wakeham was the Protestant rector at the time of my visit
; and there is no doubt that if he had not been personally aware of the
circumstances, he ought to have been informed by some one who respected the
dead, and he ought to have endeavoured to keep the cemetery in some sort of
order. The dilapidated walls of the church were yet standing ; they exhibit two
very curious windows ___ one of them is round-headed on the inside and formed
of a single stone, but on the outside of the wall the window is round. The
second window is narrow and round headed ; splayed on the inside with cut off
angles above. This church, from the north wall of which grows an aged ash tree,
was dedicated to St. Conlan, whose patron day was kept on the 24th
of July. There is an ambry and piscina in the south wall. The old “pattern” as
the word “Patron” is called in the country, is no longer kept as it used to be
formerly in large assemblages and often in drinking and rioting ; the people,
in this respect, owing to the unremitting exhortations and nervous discharge of
duty by the respected parochial clergy observe the day in religious exercises,
rather than in those pursuits which not unfrequently ended in quarrels and
riots, and in their appearance afterwards in the police court, amid mutual
recriminations, and subsequently before Barrister Howley in Nenagh, or perhaps
before some more unrelenting member of the bench at the next assizes in the
same good town. Father Mathew did immense service too in changing the manners
and habits of the people for the better. Though a generation has passed away
since the illustrious Apostle of Temperance began his mission, the good effects
of it continue to be felt and appreciated. There is a well near at hand in the
same old graveyard, dedicated also to St. Conlan ; it holds its reverential
place among the holy wells of old Ireland, and it is shaded by venerable ash
trees, under which, on a fine summer’s day, it sparkles to partake in its
refreshing coolness, and invites the wayfarer to partake of the purest, the
best all beverages. The well is reported to cure sore eyes and headaches ___ no
doubt, as there is no more powerful detersive and refrigerant than spring
water, and nothing, therefore, more grateful to the eye ; whilst at the same
time, when drank, it is an excellent medicine for the blood. We are not
surprised that these wells should be so popular ; whilst, no doubt, faith,
which is strong in the Irish heart, works wonders.
The genii of the olden times
Still hover round these holy wells ;
Transferring to a faith sublime
The worship of old pagan spells,
Now consecrated to the creed
For which our sires were doomed to bleed
There are two very large red or golden trout religiously
preserved in this well ; and it is said that if the person ailing happens to
see one of them it is a prognostic of his cure. Trout, I need not say, are to
be found in the principal among the holy wells of our country ; they are looked
upon with the greatest regard by the people ; many startling stories are
related of those who attempt to meddle with them, to injure them, or to deprive
them of life. Our readers will remember the fate of the ferocious soldiers of
the Black Horse in Limerick garrison, who robbed Penny Well of its trout, and
made an effort to roast it. The fish is an emblem of our Saviour ; and all over
the Christian world the emblem is associated with the Redeemer who came to
earth, to die for and save mankind ___ The Fisherman’s Ring is the official
seal of the most ancient and the most venerable of earthly monarchies, as it is
the most closely identified with glorious traditions, and the great preserver
of order amid the world’s constant changes ___ There are trout in the holy
wells of St. Quan, in the parish of Mothell, county Waterford ; in Cragg, near
Newport, county of Tipperary ; and in various other holy wells ; in the well of
All Saints, or Tubbernanave, in the King’s County. There are some remarkable
grave stones in the church and burial ground. The tomb of the old and
respectable family of Power of Monroe ___ a branch, I have heard, of the
Waterford Powers and intimately related to the Dickson family of the county of
Limerick __ forms a prominent object here. It is well slated with the slates of
Corbally ; it is spacious and has a solid iron door. The space in front of the
tomb contains various pretty shrubs and evergreens, and is enclosed with a high
wall, having a gate made of open bar iron. On one of the grave stones in the
church is the following :---
“Here lieth
The body of Darby
O’Brien deceased
Nov THE 30th 1789
Also his wife Mary
Jany 7 17??
Lord Have mercy
On their souls.”
On a headstone is the subjoined :---
“Erected by Matthew and
Mallachy Brien in memory
Of their father James Brien
Who dep this life Oct : the
6 1842 aged 50 years – also
Their brother John Brien
Who dep this life the 20 of
April 1822 aged 3 months.
May their souls rest in peace
Amen.”
The fraternal piety which thus offered up a prayer for the
repose of the soul of an innocent infant twenty years after its death is very
remarkable. Upon a flat stone at the base of the headstone last mentioned is
inscribed :----
“Vain man, reflect ---- think on the day
That you will here like me decay.
Adieu, my friend, cease for to deplore
The loss of me who is no more.”
By far the greater number of the occupants of this burial
place are of the name of O’Brien ; descendants, no doubt, of the ancient
McIBriens of Arra, to whom we shall come as we proceed, or of the O’Briens, as
the monumental inscriptions sufficiently testify. I found two gravestones here
dated 1691. On one of them was visible merely the date within a circle, and the
words THADY oBRIEN ; on the other was inscribed a cross, surmounted by a rude
representation of an angel. The letters DOB ran across the foot of the cross,
the interior of which is hollowed like a bowl and has the date 1691 inscribed
within its circumference. Then there is a death’s head surmounting two cross
bones, under which is the monogram D, with S in the half circle of the D, and
the whole within a circle (O), probably meant for “Deus Omnipotens Salvator.” I
found a similar monogram on other slabs here, and on one of them it was the
only inscription. Upon the northern edge of the sepulchral slab I have been
describing were the words :- JOHN HYRLY TERENCE OBRIEN M ORO oBRIEN And on its
western edge was DAN oBRIEN.
From the church of Youghall Arra we went to Garrykennedy
(Kennedy’s garden --- very likely a favourite resort of one of the great
O’Brien sept in other times), a delightful place ; we passed through the
handsome and improved demesne of Captain Bernard, Youghall Cottage, and by
Youghall House, the fine residence of Mr. Smithwick, J.P. At Garrykennedy are
the ruins of a square castle, which an individual who was on the spot at the
time of our visit told me in the gravest manner possible was built by the Danes
! What in Ireland has not been built by the Danes, according to the testimony
of some of our country people? The proper name of it is Slanger Castle ; but
there is no doubt that over the doorway before it was ruined were the letters
“O’B” in rude stone work incised, and these letters showed that it was the
residence of the O’Briens in olden days. Here was the gallows trees also in
former times, as the O’Briens did summary executions on every obnoxious person
within their territory. A clerk or overseer of Mr. Headech has converted the
upper closet of the castle into an office when we were there. Here was an
anchor outside the harbour the “Midge”, a small but neat pleasure yacht of Mr. Headech
; and the harbour was occupied by three large sailing lumber boats belonging to
the same gentleman, which ? ? in conveying slates raised at the quarries, and
in bringing back timber, &c. Near Garrykennedy House, the Terry Alta, in
the days of their rampancy, dug a grave in a plantation and affixed a
threatening notice over it for Mr. Colleton, an English gentleman, who then
resided here. He immediately began building a round tower for his own
protection. It is 20 feet in diameter and 45 feet high. The joists were laid in
it for three floors, but it never was roofed or finished. The entrance door is
some ten or twelve feet from the ground ; and, like some of the ancient Round
Towers, or the more modern Martella Towers, approachable only by a ladder ! ---
What an idea Mr. Colleton had of self protection.
I should state that at Ballingeer or
Ballingare, the property of Charles Rolleston, Esq, Q.C the very much respected
Chairman of Tipperary, is an upright stone, marked as “The Stone” on the
Ordnance map. This townland contains 341a., and his lands of Tomlough, 217a
? 28p and Tomlough Lower 200a. Mr. Rolleston was always popular in Tipperary.
Portroe stands partly on the townland of Shesharoe (red
ploughshare) but principally on that of Garrykennedy. I am reminded by a valued
friend, and an excellent Irish etymologist that Lough Tea, as mentioned in the
last Reminisence, is not a grave carne, but Leacht Aodh – Hugh’s grave – said
Hugh no one can tell anything about in tradition or story ; and that Tom Leacht
(latin ?) may also have the same derivation as Toom, Tomies or Tames – a place
of water spouts, as in Kiltanon, county Clare.
(To be Continued).
The Tipperary Vindicator and Limerick Reporter, Tuesday
Evening, May 10, 1870
Reminiscences of a journalist and notes of old events
No. CCCXII (312)
(Written for the Reporter and Vindicator)
Collections for a history of the Dalcassians
Castletown Arra Graveyard – Terrance MacIBriens Tomb –
The Parksers, The Heads &c.
No. XXXII
We now resume our visit to Castletown, which we merely
touched on in No. XXIX, having been drawn away from a more particular
examination of the place by the more immediate attractions of Youghall and
Portroe, &c. The church at Castletown is erected on an artificial platform
of earth, very much circumscribed. The country here is beautifully wooded by
umbrageous ash and elm trees, intermixed here and there with large quantities
of the Alnus Vulgaris (alder), in Irish Fearnog, the bark of which serves for
dying instead of ?, and the green bedewed leaves of which, spread in bed-room
and shortly afterwards removed, is effectual according to Threlekeld and K’Eogh
in taking away those pests ___ the fleas ; the wood of this timber, dry, like
poplar, and known by the name of Irish mahogany, is much used on the banks of
the Shannon for boat building &c. With a couple of friends, a few years
ago, we paid a visit to the old parish church and cemetery of Castletown, on
the verge of the Shannon, and to the tomb or ancient vault of the family of
McIBrien of O’Brien, which is situate under the north sidewall of the church.
The slab informing us of the name of the occupant is mutilated and overgrown
with grass and weeds. We made a rubbing of the inscription, which is in verge
of the slab. The style of writing is abbreviated ; and in some parts of the
inscription the letters have been so injured that it is impossible to discover
what they are ; whilst in others they have disappeared totally. In the
Archaeological and Historical Journal of Ireland, in my illustrations of the
Fee Book of Dr. Thomas Arthur, the inscription is fully set out, and very
beautifully and very accurately printed. Without reproducing it here, I shall
merely give a translation of the monumental record, which will be quite
sufficient for our present purpose. When these “Collections” shall have been
gathered together in more permanent form than they now appear in, as I trust I
shall be able to place them, the inscription must be awarded its pride of place
with all the attention that can be bestowed upon it :___
“I Terence Brien caused this to be made in memory of myself
and my wife Mori Ni Carroll. This second monument for the sake of his own,
likewise all of his names’ memory, caused to be completed.”
I do not say that this is a very elegant translation ; but
it accurately renders the rather barbarous latin in which the inscriber
indulged ___ Who this Terence Brien was, how largely he figured in his day, and
what posterity he left, shall all appear in due form as we proceed.
This old churchyard is principally covered with silent
tenants of the names of Brien and Parker; with several of the old stock of the
Gleesons too, who, in their day, filled rather remarkable places in the
beautiful district of Duharrow. On a tomb S.W. of the church, and encompassed
by a spacious walled enclosure is ____
“Underneath are deposited
The remains of Aninus Parker,
Of Castletown, Esq, J.P. and
D.I. for the County Tipperary
Who departed this life
The 4th day of May, 1837,
In the 68th year of his age
This Monument was erected
To his memory by his Son,
Anno Domini 1838
I should say of the Parker family that in the length and
breadth of great Tipperary no name enjoys a higher reputation for goodness in
practical dealing with their extensive tenantry, or in the exercises of popular
neighbourship. They are respected by all classes ; and by the poor, in
particular they have always beloved for their generosity, and for the absence
of that miserable proselytising spirit which more than anything else has
created the most bitter feelings in the minds of the people against such of the
gentry as indulge in it.
The next monument I happened to examine is calculated to
make us think less of youth, beauty, fortune, and all that the world admires
and aspires to, than the majority of mankind are accustomed to think of them
___ This tomb records the early death of an accomplished and lovely lady, the
pride of her home, and the admired of all who had the privilege of her
acquaintance. The inscription tells a tale which must impart reflexion to the
mind of youth as well as age :----
Here lies the body of
Maria Head, eldest daughter of
Michael Prittie Head,
Of Derry Castle, in the
County of Tipperary, Esq,
Who departed this life Oct. 19th
1819
Aged 20 years.”
The Head family whilst they held Derry Castle, in the
possession of which about thirty years ago they were succeeded by the late
Francis Spaight, Esq., J.P., of Limerick, were ever held in the highest
estimation by the people of the neighbourhood. The Heads are an old family in
Tipperary, and are now represented by William Henry Head, Esq., of Modreeny
House, for whom his Majesty Willaim IV. Stood sponsor. The family is descended
from Michael Head, Esq. of the city of Waterford, who in the year 1672 was
Sheriff of that city, and Mayor of the same in 1684. John Head, Esq., of
Waterford, the son of Thos. Head, Esq., of Head’s Grove, in the county of
Kilkenny, married Elizabeth, daughter and heir of Samuel Wade, Esq., of Derry,
the descendent of General Samuel Wade, the debenturer of Cromwell’s army, who
obtained large grants of the O’Brien property, in Duharrow, and whose portrait
in armour is said at present to ornament one of the rooms of Derry House.
Between the inscription above given, and Sir Bernard Burke (Landed Gentry of
Great Britain and Ireland), who represents
Maria as the second daughter, and married to William Gore, Esq., there
is an obvious discrepancy. How to reconcile it I really know not ; but I would
say that the inscription is the better evidence, and that until Sir Bernard
Burke shall bring forward proof more positive that a printed pedigree, to
remove or upset the earlier and more oft seen slab, we must pronounce in favour
of the monument. Nothing, indeed, is it to her whose remains lie beneath the tomb
which or which not may be pronounced the genuine record ; but we should say
that one or the other must be in error. The beauteous young lady, of whom death
this tomb is a memorial, was called away ere she had tasted the sorrow of the
world’s unaccountable and often sudden changes, and felt the pang of seeing the
unparalleled scenic attractions of Derry Castle, for so many years the proud
patrimony of her ancient and respectable family, pass for ever into other
hands. I may state of Derry Castle Demesne that the drive through it is
exceedingly agreeable, whether from the Ballina (Killaloe) side or from the
Nenagh side. At the time of the Public Works in 1847, a very fine roadway was
made here, which cut off a rather precipitous hill which travellers hitherto
were compelled to ascend or descend in their journeys to or from Nenagh by this
pleasant route ; and this was one of the chief benefits conferred on the
district by the Public Works in question. I must say of Mr Spaight, the present
owner of Derry Castle, that he affords every facility to pic-nic parties to
enjoy the pleasure of a drive through, and of every accommodation in the
demesne, viz., the Cottage which has been a favorite resort with casual
visitors.
Close by the foot of the last described monument is a less
aristocratic headstone, which tells of a similar visitation in a more humble
sphere of life. But the moral is equally instructive ; it shows that the grim
and unrelenting tyrant “knocks alike at the castles of the great and the huts
of the poor”.
There are several remarkable tombstones and inscriptions in
this old graveyard, to which we shall pay attention in the next chapter.
(To be continued).
The Tipperary Vindicator and Limerick Reporter, Tuesday
Evening, May 17, 1870
Reminiscences of a journalist and notes of old events
No. CCCXIII (313)
(Written for the Reporter and Vindicator)
Collections for a history of the Dalcassians
Castletown Arra Continued – The Churchyard – Reflexions
on the Tombs – The Heads _ The Gores = A Correction – The Parkers “The
Counsellor” And the Tenant – Ballyvalley, &c.
No. XXXIII
The humble monument briefly glanced at in our last chapter
tells us that it was erected by Mary Meara in memory of her daughter, Eleanor,
who died November 14th, 1818, aged 24 years. It states that “she
lived beloved and died lamented ;” and it concludes with the pious aspiration,
“May she rest in peace.” Here we find two young, and, doubtless, blooming
creatures ---- the one in the midst of an aristocratic circle ; the other in
the lowly, though not less virtuous, circle of the peasantry --- the one the
daughter of the owner of Derry Castle ; the other heiress to the stern duties
imposed by the will of Providence on the more lowly born, cut off by death in
the same year. Their remains repose or moulder near each other in the bosom of
our common mother, Earth ; their respective parents and surviving relatives
were left to mourn their premature departure, like that of meteors from the
scenes which they momentarily illumine by their sudden splendour. On one, and
the more wealthy tomb, there is no other record than the cold, formal
inscription which tells the melancholy tale, and fixes the date with a strong
hand ; on the other and the humbler, the feelings are moved to sympathy, and
the lips involuntarily reecho the prayer, to which the heart beats responsive,
that the tender young maiden who sleeps below may find everlasting repose in
the world where there is perpetual spring, and no winter ; where all is
happiness, and all unfading beauty, which the worm does not spoil, or the rust
corrode, or death conquer. It is the singular privilege of the professors of
the old faith to be able to send up a prayer to Heaven for the endless rest of
the beloved ones who have left them ! What a grand, and delightful, and
consoling thought this is, that the grave, though it closes on the once
animated form, does not separate us altogether from the tenant of the tomb, but
that when we think on her or him who player her or his part in life beside us,
and who has been called off in the early prime of life, or in the sere and
yellow of the leaf, we can say Requieseat in pace ! Surely this is a noble
privilege for the Christian who believes in that middle state, which the Church
of Ages teaches exists after death. I am reminded by a respectable gentleman,
who says “Je suis fort en genealogie commesont tous les sots qui ont de la
memoire,” that a Maria Head, sister of Michael Prittie Head, of Derry, married
William Gore, son of a Bishop of Limerick. He goes on to say : “There is a
genealogical problem which I cannot solve ; for many generations the Gore
family has proclaimed that the ancestor was married to Miss Wickliffe, niece of
the beheaded Earl of Strafford. The published history of the Wentworth family
states that Black Tom had only three sisters, none of whom was married to a
Wickliffe. If it were the case “my respected informant states” he should be a
Plantagenent from his great-great-grandmother Gore, which he believes he is
not.
On a rough slab, which measures about 3 feet in length by 2
½ feet in breadth, is incised a cross within a circle ; this is the Chaldean
type of the earth. Above the circle is an artificially delineated figure of a
cherub, and at the bottom of the stone are the letters M:M:K: mm. The cherub is
manifestly the work of the same hand as one I have met with on a funeral slab
in the burial ground of Youghall Arra, and which bears the date 1691. The
character of the middle M, with the cedilla over it, is an Irish abbreviation for
the word ‘Maille”.
Before we proceed to the examination of the other monuments
in this romantically situated churchyard, I may briefly refer to some few
anecdotes respecting the Heads and the Parkers which are current in this
district. One of the former family is said to have had a dispute with one of
the Catholic Priests of Ballina and Boher, in the Penal times ; how the dispute
originated I really know not ; but it is said that it did not eventuate
happily. Of the Parkers, it is well known that no more benevolent neighbours or
landlords ever lived. I have heard the following anecdote on the most reliable
authority :--- “The Counsellor”, as he was familiarly called, who resided at
Ballyvalley, near Killaloe, was particularly charitable. In the hard times,
some twenty or twenty-two years ago, he saw, one day, a very poor looking man
in the demesne ; but the poor looking man was evidently apprehensive and
reluctant in the extreme to approach the hall-door. With head down, and most
pensive look, he was the personification of distress. The Counsellor, observing
that he had determined apparently not to come nearer, asked, in a loud voice,
who he was, and what he wanted ? The trembling tenant, for tenant he was, told
his name, what was his mission, how much ashamed he felt at meeting his honor,
how far he came in the cold of the winter morning, and what he owed, and how
little he had to pay it “All I have, in the world, your honor, are these nine
pounds, a small thing out of my rent ; but here it is with a blessing ; and I
am sure you will have patience with me for the arrears until the times
improve.”
“And how did you scrape the £9 together,” asked the
Counsellor?
“To tell your honor the truth,” replied the tenant, “I had a
couple of pigs, and two little heifers, I sold them at the fair of O’Brien’s
Bridge ; and that is the way I made up the rest. I wish I could do more.”
“And what have you reserved for your wife and children ?”
said the Counsellor.
“Nothing but Providence and the good will o the neighbours,”
sighed the poor man ; “I give your honour, now, all I have in the world.”
“And you tell me you have no provision and no stock?”
“I tell you the truth, your honor.”
“Then,” said the Counsellor, “what brought you here?”
“To give you the £9, your honor.”
“Take it home with you,” said the Counsellor, “and take this
receipt in full too for what you owe. You can not stock your farm and purchase
provisions, and when the times improve I am sure you will not forget your
landlord. If I took what you are giving me, your hungry wife and children would
fall to cursing Counsellor Parker for taking what you had from them. Id prefer
their prayers to their curses.
The poor man went his way rejoicing, and his case was the
case of many other tenants on the same estate. “The Counsellor” delighted at
times in crossing the river and feasting his eyes on the magnificent panorama,
of which Ballyvalley forms a feature of the most attractive loveliness. He was
accustomed, too, to walk into Killaloe frequently ; and, as he passed up by the
New-street, he was sure to be encountered by crowds of applicants for relief,
to whom his usual donation was a half-crown, of which he kept a pocket full
always about him on such occasions. When dying he kissed his watch and handed
it to his steward, telling him to keep it in memory of his master, and to ask
the people to pray for him when he should be no more. I have heard that he did
not care to seek the ministrations of the clergyman of his church (the
Protestant), for what reason I am not aware ; but he died deeply and deservedly
regretted by all who had the slightest knowledge of his many truly admirable
qualities. By name, the Parkers are said to have come to North Tipperary from
Cork, and to have purchased there and in Clare ; but the truth is, that the
first Captain Parker was a debenturer, and got large grants in Duharrow, which
are set out in the Book of Distributions and Down Survey ; but I have always
heard that there could not be more unexceptionable landlords, or better
neighbours. The origin of the family is said to be of Windsor, where they were
employted by the Kings of England as Park-carers, hence the derivation of the
name Parker. Ballyvalley House has been rebuilt and much enlarged, and a
cutting and clearing of a large quantity of the aged timber which crowded the
demesne enables a view to be had of the house ; and from the house an extensive
view of Lough Dergh in its wide expanse up to Portumna. There was a grand pic
nic there last week, when the gentry of Tipperary, Clare, and Limerick
assembled in the demesne ; and the day being pluvious, the feast intended for
viridi super fronde was given in the new house, where there was much enjoyment
until the sun’s rays next morning, glancing over mountain, lake, and bower,
told that it was time for the company to depart for their respective homes in
the three counties. About fifty carriages crossed or passed the bridge of
Killaloe at six o’clock a.m. It was a great house-warming.
The Tipperary Vindicator and Limerick Reporter, Tuesday
Evening, May 24, 1870
Reminiscences of a journalist and notes of old events
No. CCCXIII (314)
(Written for the Reporter and Vindicator)
Collections for a history of the Dalcassians
A Correction – The Parker Family – Arthur Young at
Castlelough and Derry
No. XXXIV
There can be no hesitation in making a correction where an
error has been fallen into ; and it is one of the advantages of the mode I have
adopted in the publication of these Reminiscences and Notes in the column of
this journal that the moment an error has been made it can be at once detected,
and the remedy applied without delay.
In reference to the Parker family of Duharrow, I was made
aware, before I received the following note, that I had made a mistake in
confounding Captain Parker, one of Cromwell’s favourites, and a large
debenturer, as appears by the Book of Distribution and the Down Survey, with
the present Parker family of Castle Lough and Ballyvalley, who I find have held
by purchase the broad and beautiful lands on the banks of the Shannon, a
considerable portion of which, according to the testimony of Arthur Young, was
reclaimed and brought into perfect cultivation by Anthony Parker, Esq., the
purchaser, in the last century. These are the words of the Tourist :--
“October 3rd, taking my leave of Johnstown and
its agreeable and hospitable family, I took the road towards Derry, the seat of
Michael Head, Esq., through a country much of it bordering on the Shannon, and
commanding many fine views of that river ; but its nakedness, except at
particular places, taken off much from the beauty of the scenery. Near to Derry
there are some finer views. From one hill, the road commands the bay of
Scarriff, Lough Derg back to Johnstown ; and the river turning under the hills
of Achnis, a promontory or wood, which separates them, is fully seen ; there
are also many hedges, so well grown with scattered trees on the higher site as
to have a pleasing effect. I found Mr. Head on my arrival, just going to dine
with a neighbour, Mr. Parker, whose father had worked a very fine mountain
improvement, and who would probably be there ; this was a sufficient
inducement, had there been no other, for me to accompany him. I found Mr.
Parker’s house, so near the river, as sometimes to be washed by it. The
improvement I had heard of is a hill above 40 acres, which was covered with
ling, furze, &c. and not worth 6d a mere thirty-two years ago when the work
was begun. He grubbed, ploughed it, and sowed oats, and marled the stubble from
the Shannon ; the marls, from the steepness of the hill, being carried on the
backs of oxen. Upon this be took a crop of wheat, and another of oats, both
exceedingly fine, and with the latter sowed the seeds for the grass, which
still remains, and has been improving every fence ; it is now work 30s. an
acre, and a very pleasing object to the eye, especially since Mr. Parker,
junior, has added to the fineness of the verdure and herbage by feeding it with
many sheep.”
Now to a letter which has been received from a highly
respectable member of the Parker family, who has forwarded a private note with
the subjoined, to which he appends his proper name, but not for publications
----
“TO THE EDITOR OF THE REPORTER AND VINDICATOR
“Sir --- In fairness I hope you will allow me to correct
some mistakes in an article headed “Reminiscences of a Journalist,” which
appeared in your paper of the 17th.
“The Captain Parker mentioned as a ‘debenturer’ in the Down
Survey was not one of the same family as the Parkers of Castletown ; the last
representative of Captain Parker’s family having died in the parish of Youghall
Arra, where he resided, about fifty years ago ; his property being all sold
after his death. In the next place, the Parkers of Castletown came from the
County Limerick (of which County the writer’s grandfather was High Sheriff in
1761, and his great-grandfather in 1740-41) to the County Tipperary, and NOT
from Cork, as stated ; and obtained whatever lands they hold by purchase, and
NOT by grant.
“There are several other matters relating to the late
William Parker of Ballyvalley, which are also entirely incorrect ; but, if I
were to enter upon them, it would occupy too much of your valuable space,
without in any way interesting your readers.
“I remain, sir
“Your obedient servant,
“ONE OF THE PARKER FAMILY.”
In the above letter there is an error as to the year that
Anthony Parker, Esq., of Dunkip Castle, became High Sheriff of the County
Limerick, which was in 1738, not in 1740-41. Anthony Parker, junior, Esq., son
of the above, and apparently during the life-time of his father was High
Sheriff of the same County in the year 1761. (See Lenihan’s History of
Limerick). It wants but seven or eight years of a century since Arthur Young
visited Derry, Castlelough, &c. The observant and painstaking traveller
spent no less than four days at Derry, and though the account he gives us of
his visit to that extremely picturesque and exceedingly interesting
neighbourhood is rather lengthy for republication in our columns, yet it is so
fraught with so much interest that it cannot fail, under present circumstances
‘to be of use, and I think the statement will prove to be the source of no
small pleasure and instruction to my readers in general :___
In the same conversation I also learned a few particulars of a bog of twelve acres , part of one of 150 , improved by Mr. Minchin , near Nenagh . ' The first operation was to cut main drains six feet deep , and cross ones of 18 inches or two feet , and as soon as it was a little firm , covered it with lime - stone gravel three inches thick , before the bog would bear a car ; but did it by beginning at the edge , and advancing on the part gravelled . Part was tilled , and part left for grass without ploughing : the meadow thus formed has been exceedingly fine . One uncommon circum stance was , his having paved the bottom of the drains with gravel , in order to prevent cattle from being bogged in them . The
expence of the whole improvement £ 8 an acre .
The profit immense .
It is to Mr. Head's attention that I am indebted for the follow ing particulars concerning the barony of Owna and Arra . ' The soil is a light gravelly loam , on a slaty rock , which is almost general through the whole . The rent on an average 158. for profitable land , and ls . for mountain ; and as there is about half and half , the whole will be 88 . The rise of rent , in twenty years , is about double . Estates are generally large , scarce any so low as £ 500 or £ 600 a year . Farms are all small , none above 300 or 400 acres : many are taken in partnership , three , four , or five families to 100 acres . They divide the land among themselves , each man taking according to his capital . The terms rundale and change dale unknown , as is the latter practice . There are no farms without buildings upon them . Laying out money in building better houses would pay no interest at all , as they are perfectly satisfied with their mud cabbins . Courses of crops on reclaimed mountain ,
1. Marle for oats . 2. Bere . 3. Bere . 4. Wheat . 5. Oats , or English barley . 6. Oats . 7. Oats . 8. Oats . 9. Oats . 10. Oats . The number of these crops of oats proportioned to the quantity of marle laid on ; but the rule is to take as long as the land will yield , and then leave it to recover itself by weeds . Another course :
1. Potatoes in drills on an exhausted stubble . 2. Bere . 3. Oats . 4. Oats . 5. Oats . 6. Oats , and so on till none will be got .
The quantity of wheat is very little ; for that little they sow & barrel an acre , and get 8 barrels ; medium price , 10d . to 13d . a stone . Of bere they sow a barrel , and get 15. Of oats sow two barrels , the produce 8 to 15 , according to being early or late in the course . Price of bere six - pence to seven - pence halfpenny . Oats , four - pence to six - pence per stone . No pease , beans , clover , or turnips ; but they have little patches of flax for their own consumption . Potatoes they very generally cultivate in drills ; they plough the stubble twice or thrice , and then open trenches wi the plough three feet asunder ; in which they put some dung , lay the sets on it , and cover them with the plough if they have horses , or if not with shovels . They keep them clean byconstant earthing up with ploughs or shovels . They dig them out , the produce thirty - five barrels per acre . They find that nothing is so good and clean a fallow for corn . Some poor people hire grass land for them in the lazy bed way , paying £ 3 to £ 5 10s . per acre .
The only manure used besides dung is the shelly marle , dredged up from the bottom of the Shannon . Mr. Head's grandfather was the first who introduced that method of getting at it by bring ing men from Dublin used to raising ballast . It proved so profitable , that the use has much increased since . It lies ir . regularly in banks , from 100 to 200 yards from the shore , and under 10 or 12 feet of water in summer , which is the only time they can get it . The price of raising it is from 18. to 2s . , accord ing to circumstances , besides finding boat , ropes , and all tackle ; a boat contains 60 bushels , and requires 5 men . They land it on a quay , from whence it is taken in sledge carts to some distance for drying , nor is it dry enough for carting away till the year following . Some think it worth carrying one mile , and even two . The common people do not lay on more than four or five boat loads to an acre , but Mr. Head always ten , and the whole expence he calculates at 40s . Much bad land has been re claimed by it , and to great profit . All their dung is used for potatoes .
The tillage of the common people is done with horses , four in a plough , which do half an acre a day : gentlemen use four oxen . The price 88. an acre . No paring and burning .
They shut up their meadows for hay in March or April , and rarely begin to mow till September . I should remark that I saw the hay making or marring all the way ( October 3rd ) from Johnstown hither , with many fields covered with water , and the cocks forming little islands in them . They are generally two months making it ; the crop one to one ton and a half per acre .
There is no regular system of cattle in this barony , there not being above four or five graziers ; but gentlemen , in their domains , have all the different systems . The common farmers keep a few of most sorts of cattle , except fat ones . No large flocks of sheep , but every farmer a few breeding ewes . The fleeces four to a stone . They sell either lambs , hoggits , or two- or three - year - olds ; the price of a two - year - old ewe , 108 .; they have no winter food but grass , even the gentlemen have their fat mutton all winter from the low grass lands on the Shannon , without either hay or turnips .
The marled land has a remarkable spring of grass in the winter ; the rot is very little known . All keep pigs , which are much increased of late ; their pork 328. a cwt . last year at Limerick ; Mr. Head has known it so low as 14s . No proportion between cows and pigs .
Arthur Young proceeds at considerable length to tell his
experiences of the Barony in question, of the habits of the people in it, some
of which have been altogether exploded, and are now nearly forgotten. We need
not add that in many essential particulars the changes which have taken place
are all for the better ; and that the scenery within the past century has
wonderfully improved in almost every respect.
