Síd Cullain or the Castle of Cullahill

This is one of the Síds of Tipperary that I had forgotten to write up into blog format.

People will know it as the dramatic ruin looking down into the valley were Kelly's of Fantane are based. Prof Ronald Hicks who is an expert on the subject says this "Síd (Cullain) – in or near Glenkeen, a valley and parish in County Tipperary with an early monastic site. There are several likely hills nearby, including one in the townland. Perhaps more likely is Cullahill, to the west of the mona...stic site. Today there is the ruin of a large house of indeterminate age on Cullahill."

What is interesting is just how much archaeology and folklore you can see from up here. Looking to the east you can see Knockanora with a cairn on top, next is the hillfort of Garrangrena Lower and then the Devils Bit forms an interesting silhouette. I was really impressed with the views and the remains up here.

Archaeology.ie describes the castle as "Situated on natural rock outcrop in an upland area with extensive views. A seventeenth-century house (TN034-025001) and bawn (TN034-025002) lie to the NW and a ringwork castle (TN034-025004) lies to the NE. Present remains consist of the wall-footings of a two-room single-pile rectangular house site (ext. dims. 18.4m N-S; 8.9m E-W; wall T 0.9m) with a doorway in the centre of the W wall which gives direct access to the large N room. A partition wall divides the N room from the smaller S room. A possible drain outlet in the SE angle of the S wall suggests the possible use of the building as a byre."
It makes sense that it was built on a rock outcrop as that seems to be the reason it has fallen down as the foundations settled over the years.

In Cois Deirge (a local historical journal mainly dealing with the lakeside areas) a piece about the castle was written in 1990 - the main parts that I can see that may relate to a fairy mound is the mention of music being heard and also the finding of a large slab of stone.

"Some stories of ghosts were also connected with the old ruins. Years ago an old resident in the adjoining locality used to say that a sow & bonhams could be heard in the castle at certain times of the year. Strong sound of music could be heard on other occasions. But the most unusual incident ever heard of took place on one occasion.

It was believed that there were a couple of pots of gold hid underneath the floor of the castle. One day two young fellows set out to get this hoard of wealth. They dug down a few feet, and then came upon a big stone slab. They were certain that the treasure was near at hand. They lifted the stone a small bit. Then they got the "shock of their lives". From underneath the stone out came a huge bird cock shape, and black as a slowe. He flew at one of the boys and picked him on the face. They he flew away and never seen afterwards. The boy took ill and died in a few days. But the treasure was never discovered"

I have reproduced the full article here as the journal is very difficult to get a hold of these days.

From Cois Deirge 1990

"Cullohill Castle is situated in about three mile North West of Borrisoleigh village. The ruinous state of the ancient fortress is on a hillock overlooking the main Nenagh Thurles highway. It was a two storey building and the foundation was cut out of solid rock, which forms part of the north side wall to a height of about thirty feet and the masonary just sits on top. This portion is thirty feet by sixty and has pointed gables, height about forty feet. Adjoining the north wall is a strong square building, thirty feet, by thirty four. This was apparently the castle dungeon. Said to was erected in the thirteenth century, about 1260 (approx). Greater part of the ruin now standing appears to have been erected in the 15/16 century. The castle figured constantly in the strife between the O'Dwyers and the De Burges from the 13th to the 15th century when peace was made between the two families. Walter Bourke married Sheila na Guira. Local tradition tells us that Sheila resided at Cullohill castle where she committed numerous deeds which could hardly be recorded publicly. Known by name as Sheila na Guira numerous tales are still told of her harsh treatment towards those who incurred her hostility, e.g. some of her enemies when captured were placed in a barrel, the interior spiked and then rolled down the steep slope neath the castle walls, a painful departure from torture within the castle walls. Other victims were flung into huge containers of boiling oil and roasted to death.

Sheila had a sister (name Christian unknown) who according to the report from Sheila herself had a "moral relapse". She was punished according to reports published at the time. Sheila ordered her to be suspended from the top of the castle, stripped naked, and roasted to death with boiling oil poured over her body from couldrons.

On another occasion she ordered her so called troops to raid a local chieftains residence and bring the loot back to her. They obeyed her orders. The loot was brought to the castle, where it was placed in a strongroom. The following morning Sheila invited the officers in charge of the raiding party to jjoin her at breakfast. When breakfast was over the officers were taken into an adjoining room. That was the end of the day for them. They were set upon and murdered. Another of the tyrants deeds. It was believed she was afraid that they would divulge the secret of the hidden treasure.

Sheila was a sister of Dermot O'Dwyer, Cloneyhap. It is necessary to point out that a family named Bourke resided in another castle nearby. About one mile north west of Cullohill castle, in the townland of Currabaha there was the name Leobold Bourke. It appears that there was a traditional fued between this man Bourke and Dermot O'Dwyer, of Cloney harp (Drombane district) O'Dwyer attacked this stronghold of Bourke but failed to take it and had to withdraw to his own territory. Tradition tells us that O'Dwyer remained in hiding outside the castle after his forces had withdrawn. A short time afterwards Bourke and his young son came out of the castle and into open ground. Suddenly they were set upon by O'Dwyer and Bourke was badly injured and his son was killed. Finally peace was made between the Bourkes and O'Dwyers. Sheila married Walter Bourke. Walter was out lived by Sheila. He died in 1623 and Theobold Bourke died in 1634.

Sheila was killed by one of her own soldiers. Each morning she would come to the front of the caste wall and look over her territory. This morning she came to take her usual look around. Suddenly there was heard a loud cry and they her lifeless body was found on the ground beneath the castle walls. She was buried in Glenkeen cemetary.

Other tales are told about this female tyrant. The old tale that still survives is worth relating. In a townland about four miles west of Cullohill there lived an old man Reeney Ryan. He was the father of a big family - 22 sons. He met Sheila one day as he was journeying through the district. They talked awhile and then an argument started between them. Shiela challenged Reeney to muster his men and fight he trained soldiers on a certain date. Old Reeney accepted the challenge. The forces met in a place called Knockane dearg, about two miles east of Cullohill. There was a fierce battle all day long. Towards evening Reeney's forces were getting the upper hand &  Sheila retreated to her stronghold at Cullohill. Those who were killed in the battle were buried where they had fallen. It was said that small mounds mark the spot where the battle was fought.

There was a small lake at the rear of the castle, but no trace of this remains, with the exception of a hollow about forty feet in diameter. It is said that the lake water is flowing from a rock on the slope of a nearby quarry.

Some stories of ghosts were also connected with the old ruins. Years ago an old resident in the adjoining locality used to say that a sow & bonhams could be heard in the castle at certain times of the year. Strong sound of music could be heard on other occasions. But the most unusual incident ever heard of took place on one occasion.

It was believed that there were a couple of pots of gold hid underneath the floor of the castle. One day two young fellows set out to get this hoard of wealth. They dug down a few feet, and then came upon a big stone slab. They were certain that the treasure was near at hand. They lifted the stone a small bit. Then they got the "shock of their lives". From underneath the stone out came a huge bird cock shape, and black as a slowe. He flew at one of the boys and picked him on the face. They he flew away and never seen afterwards. The boy took ill and died in a few days. But the treasure was never discovered."